Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has consistently been a dream destination for epicures, with locals and visitors equally praising its remarkable cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, Unesco recognised it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a select roster of international urban centers and kindling hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this designation, it joins a international community of cities urban centers across over 100 countries focused on promoting "innovation as a catalyst of city development that is sustainable".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant culinary scene," as stated by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to earn a spot in this prestigious list of 70 cities around the world.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The honor for this historic city comes as no surprise to its locals or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the opinion that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and diverse city – the administrative center of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always defined its essence: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, the method of preparation' is a ongoing conversation from waking up until night in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century wealthy Muslim rulers – is famed for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were conceived, refined, and taken to extraordinary levels in their opulent kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were epicenters of food experimentation, blending Persian and indigenous Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were created. Legend has it that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
Besides the famous kebabs and biryani, the cooks also created a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Virtually on many street corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – hidden treasures that are wildly popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, large gatherings start gathering from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a steaming cup of milky masala chai, presented in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was founded, the place is still much sought-after for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and involved. The cook hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Many however note that their younger generation are reluctant to master the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has noted that the city's profound food legacy puts it right on top of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, however, will materialize only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – influenced by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The worldwide honor, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to explore these stories and visit the city to delight in the culinary delights of Lucknow.
